Is This Durham Startup Reviving North Carolina's Textile Industry or Just a Big Scam?

DURHAM, N.C. - For decades, North Carolina's textile industry has been in freefall. Since the 1990s, the state has lost more than 80% of its textile jobs, leaving behind shuttered mills and fading traditions, according to the North Carolina Department of Commerce. But a handful of small companies and researchers believe the industry could be on the cusp of a new chapter—one focused less on mass production and more on sustainability, transparency, and regional supply chains.

The question remains whether such an approach can scale and whether consumers are willing to support it.

Textiles were once synonymous with North Carolina manufacturing, powering the state’s economy for more than a century and employing generations of families. At the sector’s peak in the mid-20th century, North Carolina produced more than 40% of U.S. textiles. However, as companies began chasing cheaper labor overseas in the late 20th century, that dominance unraveled with globalization. Between 1993 and 2022, employment in North Carolina’s textile industry fell by 85%, with numbers plummeting from more than 230,000 workers in 1996 across over 2,100 plants to about 80,000 by 2006.

“North Carolina was built on textiles. But in the 1990s and 2000s, jobs moved overseas and the industry hollowed out,” said Dr. Kativa Mathur, a professor at N.C. State University’s Wilson College of Textiles. “What we’re seeing now is not the end of textiles, just something new.”

What remains is a smaller, more specialized sector. Mills that once churned out low-cost apparel fabrics now focus on industrial materials, performance fabrics, and increasingly, sustainable products.

The Push for Sustainability

Beyond economics, environmental stakes loom large. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency estimates textiles accounted for 17 million tons of municipal solid waste in 2018, with a recycling rate under 15%. The shift towards sustainable business reflects broader consumer and environmental pressures. Globally, textiles are responsible for an estimated 6% to 8% of greenhouse gas emissions, according to a 2023 study published in Frontiers in Environmental Science. Synthetic fibers, which make up about two-thirds of clothing worldwide, shed microplastics that pollute waterways and contribute to long-term waste.

This has spurred interest in natural fibers like cotton and wool, as well as more transparent supply chains. North Carolina is uniquely positioned to meet these demands: the state is home to one of the world’s leading textile research hubs, a skilled labor force, and a heritage of craftsmanship that startup companies are eager to tap into.

State officials have also pointed to textiles as an area for innovation. Initiatives like the Manufacturing Solutions Center in Conover, North Carolina, are supporting startups and manufacturers experimenting with new materials and business models. CICIL, a Durham-based rug startup, is one of the several companies trying to test that model.

Its founders, Caroline Cockerham and Laura Tripp, aim to build their brand around sourcing directly from East Coast farms and manufacturing in North Carolina, breaking from the practices that unraveled the industry in the first place. “We like to say we’re textile nerds," said Cockerham, who studied at NC State’s College of Textiles before working with Tripp as material developers at a California-based clothing company. “We saw firsthand how global supply chains were broken. There was slave labor in cotton, false claims about organic sourcing, and products being made in places the brand didn’t even know about. It was backwards.”

Frustrated by that opacity, the pair founded CICIL in 2021 with a simple mission: rebuild a transparent, regional textile supply chain. Instead of outsourcing production, they turned to East Coast farms and a third-generation mill in North Carolina, creating toxin-free rugs that travel fewer than 1,000 miles from sheep to showroom. “We said, ‘We have these beautiful heritage textiles in our backyard. Why aren’t we using them?’” Cockerham said. “We built the supply chain first, then created the product that worked for it.”

For small and mid-sized wool farms, which often struggle to compete against global commodity prices, companies like CICIL provide rare stability. “My partner and I started with 4-H animals when we were kids, and we just never gave it up,” said Siri Swanson, a Vermont farmer and sheep shearer who supplies to CICIL. “Shearing became our launching pad into farming full-time, but selling wool is tough. It’s too small for the commodity market, too big for just farmers’ markets. CICIL stepped in and gave us an outlet.”

Swanson said the partnership not only sustains her farm but also offers a model for others. Unlike traditional textile companies that often externalize environmental costs and rely on opaque supply chains, CICIL builds sustainability into each decision, Cockerham said. The company pays fair prices for wool that might otherwise be discarded and ensures production remains regional, prioritizing accountability.

CICIL’s rugs avoid synthetics, dyes, and harsh chemicals. The natural fibers not only make them biodegradable but also highlight the unique colors of wool sourced from small farms.

Can It Scale?

CICIL’s business model poses a bigger question: Could sustainability be the future of North Carolina textiles? Mathur said the industry is at a crossroads. “The challenge is that sustainable textiles cost more. Consumers say they want them, but not everyone is willing to pay a premium,” she said. According to the National Retail Federation, over 53% of U.S. consumers think sustainable products cost too much. However, a PwC 2024 Voice of the Consumer Survey cites that while cost-of-living pressures weigh on consumers, some say they are willing to pay 9.7%% more, on average, for sustainably produced or sourced goods.

A wool rug from CICIL starts at several hundred dollars, far more than synthetic alternatives available at big-box stores. Mathur cautioned that small startups alone cannot revive an entire industry. “To scale, we need investment in infrastructure, modernized mills, and strong consumer demand,” she said. The type of consumer who supports companies like CICIL appreciates the quality and uniqueness of the products. “I love anything different and alternative and I discovered CICIL on a Google search,” said Pam Parker, a South Carolina resident and frequent consumer of CICIL. “I’ve purchased three rugs and I love their fabrics. Their products are different, excellent quality, and they have fabulous customer service.”

Advocates say natural fibers and regional supply chains could reduce the industry’s footprint, though scaling up remains difficult. The United States produced less than 1% of the world’s wool in 2020, according to the nonprofit Textile Exchange, and sustainable production often requires higher upfront costs. For CICIL, the mission is about more than rugs. “Companies like CICIL are a huge light forward for us,” said Swanson, who supplies for over 200 brands. “They are willing to work with our constraints. It is the type of wool we can actually grow here, in this climate. That gives us hope. It shows there’s a path between these tiny operations and the massive community farms.”